Today was Martin Luther King Day. Here's something I wrote and sent to some people in July, 2005:
I just had a rather surreal experience. I got on a fairly crowded Atlanta MARTA train on which I was one of maybe three white passengers. A few stops later, I got off and started walking through a very run down neighborhood, where most of the fences had razor wire on top, some of the houses were boarded up and those that weren't looked pretty desolate. It certainly didn't feel like a safe place to be. And, as far as I could tell, I was the only white person around. From the stares I was getting I may have been a pretty rare sight. Then, showing that I wasn't as lost as it looked like I was, I came upon a razor wire fence surrounding a bunch of busses that said "Ebenezer Baptist Church."
I passed a well-maintained old church building (Martin Luther King's old church), and looked across the street at an opulent new church building also labeled as the Ebenezer Baptist Church. Suddenly, instead of urban decay, I was surrounded by a very well maintained park, the Martin Luther King National Historic Site, and the most grandiose tomb I've ever seen in the US (although the torch next to it, labeled as the "Eternal Flame" was turned off). A multi-cultural group of tourists mingled about.
On the other side of the park was the house King grew up in, beautifully maintained, as were most of the houses around it, also part of the park. But half a block beyond that a residential neighborhood started again, and again the houses appeared to be crumbling.
Then I wandered into the museum. A slew of exhibits, mostly targeted towards children, explained over and over again that segregation had been a system in which black people and white people lived in different neighborhoods, went to different schools, and shopped at different stores. They emphasized the bad condition of the black neighborhoods under segregation, and went on and on about how unimaginable this situation must be for today's children, for whom it would be a completely foreign concept.
I walked back outside, and noticed that right next door to the museum was the Martin Luther King Swimming Pool, a facility run by the City of Atlanta rather than by the National Park Service, and presumably serving the neighborhood rather than museum visitors. The roof was coming detached, and there were a few jagged basketball sized holes in the windows.
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